Dec 31, 2010

Tropical Platty Pictures


This tropical ornamental platyfish or Southern platyfish (Xiphophorus maculatus or X. variatus or possibly a hybrid between these two species) is native to Mexico and Central America and closely related to Gambusia holbrooki (Gambusia) and swordtails.

Plattyfish is an exotic ornamental fish species kept as a tropical aquarium fish commonly sold from fish shops and aquarists. There are many platty fish types and varieties such as sunset, Hawaii, red coral, black tail, Samson, and platty forked widely spread in ornamental fish market.

Platty fish care actually very easy because plattyfish have a fairly high tolerance to various conditions or water quality. The platyfish is a non-migratory tropical freshwater fish preferring water temperatures between 18 - 25oC and a pH of 7 – 8. However, they have been shown to tolerate temperature extremes from 10 - 40oC and dissolved oxygen levels down to 3ppm. They feed on worms, crustaceans, insects and plant matter. Platyfish give birth to live young, typically become sexually mature from 4 months and can attain a maximum size of about 7cm. If the conditions are suitable platyfish can rapidly establish in large numbers.

The Platy fish prefer substrates such as mud, gravel, or silt and its also prefer to inhabit shallow slow moving streams and drainages, and stagnant waters such as ditches and pools, in particular where there is vegetation such as tree canopies and weedy banks.

The quality of plattyfish greatly affected by types. Coral red type for example, qualified if the body is rather short and red. While Samson type have a high qualified if its body elongated and stocky.

Platty fish commonly can be kept in the pool or open cement tanks with high density. However, that environment is often disturbed pests such as dragonfly larvae, small Argulus lice, and lernaea, thus platty susceptible attack by fish diseases. The dragonfly-larvae’s attack can cause skin of platty injured while Argulus lice and lernaea who entered by the feed will be attached to the skin of fish. This condition could be make the platty fish quality lower. Prevent to pests attack is by soaking platty fish in salt water or the abates solution.

The platyfish is a tough species but Its self also considered as a potential pest in countries where it has been introduced. Most pests are extremely difficult if not impossible to eradicate once established. Pest fish such as platy fish compete with native fish for food and space and many are able to survive in habitats that native fish cannot.

Dec 30, 2010

Lou Han Crossbreeding Cichlids Result


No specific species name of lou han fish because this fish is a type of hybrid. Various designation also exist in this louhan, including the flower horn, flower lou han, and sun go kong. Very famous and lou han fever occurred in 2001-2002, when it almost every fish hobbyists to discuss these beautiful fish. But like any other animal pet experiencing a rising trend down, this time louhan prestige was slightly down. However, still many hobbyists who still maintain even a fanatic on this fish. Evidenced by the still rampant louhan fish contest that is still often held.

'Lou han fish color' is dominated by white, red, and black with a pattern that is very varied. There is a plain or patterned batik with alternating colors. Apart from the bump on his head, color at lou han also become the standard of quality lou han.

Tropical fish are derived from the waters of this Central American continent requires optimum growing environment with medium-temperature 24-27 ° C, hardness 10 - 12 ° dH, and pH 7.0 - 7.5

As with other cichlids, 'lou han' including the aggressive and could not be mixed with other fish. Therefore, the ordinary care of a solitair hobbyists or a tail in one container.

That said, lou han fish is the result of crossbreeding of fish Cichlasoma synspilum and C. cyanoguttatum done by hobbyists Malaysia. But with time and taste the hobbyists, many types of lou han fish is the result of crossbreeding between other cichlids species.






Dec 29, 2010

Neon Tetra Paracheirodon Innesi



Among other tetra fish, Neon Tetra (Paracheirodon innesi) and Cardinal Tetra most famous because his tiny body shape and color are very beautiful. Body shape is flattened to the side with the color yellow-brown dorsally and yellowish white belly.

The characteristics of the most easily recognizable is the presence of such a line of blue neon green elongated on both sides of his body, and under fluorescent lines that there is a red line on, but not all the neon colors.

The fin of NeonTetra fish is actually clear, except for a red tail fin. Peaceable nature, makes neon tetra can be blended with other types of ornamental fish in an aquarium. The beauty of Neon Tetra fish will appear more clearly in a state when swimming clustered together to form a line.




White Spot Tropical Fish Disease


White spot is one of fish diseases that most often appear. The parasite is long settled in the aquarium. If there are fish to stress, for example in fish that had just entered into the aquarium, then this fish parasite will soon be activated and infect the skin, gills, fins and eyes of fish.

White Spot prevention alternative is to increase water temperature by 2-3 ° C, can boost the immune system of fish. If accompanied by a treatment, it is quite effective way to eliminate White Spot disease .

White spot is arguably the most common fish diseases that tropical fish are subject to, and is believed to be responsible for causing more fatalities than any other disease. It lives under the top layer of scales and skin on your fish, eating skin cells and causing minute cellular ruptures. The white spots which result from these ruptures are the basis for the parasite's name, and are what will eventually kill the host (the fish).


How does it get into my tank? White spot is usually introduced to a tank along with new, infected fish or plants. It can also break out seemingly without warning in an undisturbed tank.

When this happens, it means that the organism has been present for some time, but has been dormant (hibernating), and that some new stimulus - stress, or a change in water temperature - has caused it to awaken and become active.

The original cell of the organism will attach itself to a host (the weakest, oldest, or sickest fish in the tank), usually in the gill plates or under the scales.

After approximately one week of parasitism, the now-mature organism (mature Ich cells are called trophozoites) detaches from the fish and settles on a new surface: usually, a plant or ornament.

It will then form a capsule around itself (called a cyst) and will remain dormant - at least, outwardly - for about a week. During this period of time, the cell within the capsule is furiously dividing: by the time that those seven days are up, that one cell has become approximately 1,000 new single-celled organisms.

These "daughter cells" will then break loose and swim freely about the tank, attaching themselves to new fish - and beginning the cycle all over again.

White spot is highly contagious and progresses very rapidly. 100% mortality is to be expected unless something is done about it.

To avoid white spot, prevention is obviously the best cure. Make sure you only ever buy healthy fish from a reputable, clean breeder. Inspect the tank from which your fish originate: does it look to be in clean condition? Are the plants healthy and flourishing? Is the gravel clean of sediment and dust? Is the water warm and well-conditioned?

Check the fish, too - not just the ones you're buying, but all the fish in the tank. Watch out for ones that are 'hiding' (under rocks and behind ornaments) since this is a classic symptom of an infected fish. Make sure none are displaying those tell-tale white spots.

Thoroughly clean any gravel or ornaments you purchase before placing them in the tank, to make sure any cysts are dislodged. Quarantine new plants and fish for one week before adding them to your tank.

Never overstock your tank, since it will stress the fish (which is a major contributor to outbreaks of white spot, as well as dictating in part the severity of the outbreak). Check your fish regularly for white spots. The earlier you detect it, the less impact the white spot disease will have on your tank.



What if it's too late for prevention? If you've already got an outbreak in your own tank, relax - it may be a serious illness, but at least it's easy to cure! The most common, and user-friendly, method of curing condition is through the use of aquarium salts.

Parasites are less tolerant of salt than fish, so adding extra salt kills off all the Ich organisms with no adverse effects to the fish themselves. Make sure you follow the instructions on the package (aquarium salts should always come with clear instructions), and make sure before using it that you don't have any salt-intolerant fish in the tank like Neons, Cardinals, Glow-Lights, or scale-less Catfish, which are easily burned by salt.

A second alternative is to use a chemical called malachite green. This is an effective way of treating Ich, but unfortunately the chemical is toxic to humans (as well as most plants and snails, so make sure you remove these before commencing treatment!). Always use gloves when administering this chemical - and, because it's teratogenic (meaning it harms fetuses), pregnant women should stay well away from it.

All you have to do with malachite green is remove the carbon from the filter, and add the appropriate amount (according to the instructions) to the water of the tank. It usually takes about 4-5 days to kill all the Ich cells - a good rule of thumb is to continue use of it until a couple of days after the last white spot has vanished from the fish. 10 days is typical for use of malachite green: just remember to put the carbon back in the filter to remove any lingering traces of the treatment, and give it one or two more days before putting the snails and plants back in.

UV light is also an effective means of treatment: you can purchase inner-tank filters from the pet store with small UV lights inside them. The light kills the fish parasite in the capsule stage, before they attach to the host.

The transfer method is time-consuming but effective: you'll need to move all the fish, daily, into a new tank with clean, warm, conditioned water. It takes about 7 daily transfers (so, a week) for all the parasites to fall behind. The only downside is that the fish (and, often, the aquarist!) get stressed by the process, leaving them more susceptible to other diseases. Fish already affected by white spot will sometimes die during the transfer process because their bodies can't handle the additional stress.

Dec 28, 2010

Ornamental Fish for Aquascaping


Are you interested in aquascaping? Aquascaping is the craft of arranging aquatic plants, as well as rocks, stones, cavework, or driftwood, in an aesthetically pleasing manner within an aquarium—in effect, gardening under water.

Although there are thousands species of freshwater ornamental fish, but not all types of fish can be kept in the aquarium aquascaping.

In addition to general requirements such as the types of fish that are kept should be able to live in harmony, or types of Tetra and Rasbora fish maintained in groups, there are also special requirements for the fish that are kept does not include the type of water plant eaters (herbivores), such as goldfish or other type of cichlid which like to dig sand.

Millions ornamental fish currently maintained in aquariums in the world. Whether in the aquascape aquarium or not. Based on research in 1988, in the United States alone estimated there are 142 million ornamental fish kept in aquariums. In Germany about 40 million heads exotic fish, as well as in England, France, Japan, China, Taiwan, and hundreds of other countries in the world.

Dec 22, 2010

Dactylogyriasis (Worms Gills)

Dactylogyriasis (Worms Gills)

Cause: Dactylogyrus spp., Cychlidogyrus spp., Quadricanthus spp.

Bio-Ecology Pathogens

• Ekto-obligate parasites that are parasitic and reproduce by laying eggs
• infect all species of freshwater fish, especially the size of the seed. Transmission occurs when infective face (Onchomiracidium).
• Dactylogyrus spp. has 2 pairs of eye point, and at the tip of his head there are 4 bumps. Cychlidogyrus spp. shape is more flattened at both ends, and only has a pair of eye point. Quadricanthus spp. shape
Dactylogyrus similar spp., and has a host of species that target specific groups of catfish.
• Severe infections can kill 30-100% within a few weeks

Clinical Symptoms:
• pale body color, decreased appetite, thin, nervous and slow
• Respiratory frequency increased, the production of excess mucus in the gills and often cavort
• Gather / closer to the water inlet
• Gills pale or swollen so that the open operculum

Diagnosis:
• Visual observation of behavior and clinical symptoms that arise
• Microscopic observation to see morphology
parasites through the production segment of the organ gill preparations.

Control:
• Maintaining water quality, especially the stabilization of the water temperature> 29 degrees Celsius
• Reducing the levels of dissolved organic material and / or increase the frequency of water changes
• Dactylogyriasis attacked fish with prevalence and intensity level is low, treatment can be done by soaking several types of disinfectants, among others:
✓ salt solution at a concentration 500-10000
ppm (depending on the type and age of fish) for 24 hours
✓ Solution Potassium Permanganate (PK) at a dose of 4 ppm for 12 hours
✓ formalin solution at doses of 25-50 ppm for 24 hours or more
✓ Glacial acetic acid 0.5 ml / L for 30 seconds every 2 days for 3 - 4 times

source: Ministry of Maritime Affairs and Fisheries of Indonesia, Directorate General of Aquaculture, Fish and Environmental Health Directorate, 2010

Dec 12, 2010

Otocinclus Affinis The Most Diligent Algae Eaters Fish

Otocinclus affinis from Brazil, living in swift river wing with moss growing on rocks. Otocinclus affinis (4 cm) is the smallest Otocinclus types and most diligent algae eaters without damaging the leaves. The picture above is Otocinclus affinis on Vallisneria. Otocinclus affinis healthy life in the aquarium with clear water and a temperature of 20-26 ° C.

Otocinclus affinis is a small (2") algae-eating fish which is perfect for the tropical freshwater aquarium. It is a diligent worker, doesn't have an aggressive bone in its body, and is fun to watch interact with others in a group. Other names for otocinclus are "otos", or "dwarf suckermouth catfish".

Otocinclus should be constantly pooping. In fact, most fish from the family Loricariidae are big poopers. Since otocinclus are mainly herbivores they need massive quantities of greens to keep them healthy. The best form of this is the soft green algae that is sometimes difficult to see. A fat oto is a happy oto!

If your Otocinclus affinis is slim in any sense of the word then you need to supplement their diet with zucchini or spinach, or figure out a way to grow more algae.



















Dec 9, 2010

Top Algae Eaters for Fish Tank



The algae problem on fish tanks generally arise due to excess nitrate, too many fish, rarely replace the water, the filter is dirty and rarely cleaned, or unbalance between the forces of light and carbon dioxide dose. One of the preventive measures you can do to suppress the growth of algae is to include the type of algae eater into the tank.

Species of fish such as Otocinclus affinis, Crossocheilus siamensis and Gyrinocheilus aymonieri are examples of the fish types are effective for cleaning brown algae and green algae new growth.

Therefore, insert the fresh water algae eaters, two or three days after the aquarium is installed. The algae-eater fish is inserted into the aquarium with ratio of 1 fish to 25-50 liters of water.

If we insert two algae-eating fish into the tank containing 500 liters of water for example, then this is useless. Because, even if the fish are "working overtime" 24 hours a day, will not effectively handle the existing algae. The algae eater will be effective when working in groups.





Dec 8, 2010

Siamensis Algae Eaters


Crossocheilus siamensis also called Siamensis Algae Eaters (SAE), originated from Kalimantan (Borneo) and Sumatra. Although the color of the body was not spectacular, but these algae-eating fish found in many aquarium aquascaping because he is an avid algae-eating fish.

The Siamese algae eater (Epalzeorhynchos siamensis or Crossocheilus siamensis) has a black horizontal stripe extending from opercle to tail. The genuine Epalzeorhynchos siamensis alias Crossocheilus siamensis without maxillary barbels and with deeply fringed V-shaped upper lip is rarely encountered in the aquarium trade.


Closely related is the Red-algae eater Crossocheilus langei, a species that is widely sold as the Siamese algae eater. It has a bright brownish elongate body with a slightly flat belly. It has a prominent brown-black horizontal stripe extending from nose to tail.

This fish may grow up to the length of 16 centimeters. It possesses small maxillary barbels and an unfringed shallowly arcuate upper lip.

Two other similar species are traded as Siamensis algae eaters, namely Crossocheilus atrilimes, a species that likes to eat Java moss rather than red algae, and an undescribed species of Crossocheilus.

Dec 7, 2010

Gyrinocheilus Aymonieri


Gyrinocheilus aymonieri is an active Algae-eaters fish. Each fish to 40 liters of water is quite effective. Unfortunately, this fish when it is matures (12.5 cm) it has a reputation for becoming increasingly jealous of its territory as it matures, and also can be aggressive to fish, especially slow, flat-bodied fish., and less diligent eating algae.

Gyrinocheilus, also known as Chinese algae eater or sucking loach, is the single genus in the family Gyrinocheilidae, a family of small Southeast Asian cypriniform fishes that live in fast-flowing freshwater mountain streams. They hold on to fixed objects using a sucker-like mouth, and, despite the name, feed on a wide range of detritus, rather than simply on algae.

Dec 6, 2010

Tropical Bumblebee Goby


Bumblebee Fish or Bumblebee Goby, synonym: Brachygobius xanthozona is a brackish water ornamental fish derived from the Greater Sunda Islands in Indonesia. The Bumblebee Goby is a small, relatively peaceful fish that does not tolerate intrusion into its territory. It features a long thin body that is black with yellow stripes.

The ideal set-up is an aquarium with brackish water and plenty of plants and rocks providing the Gobies with ample hiding places. Although they do well in a community setting, they will thrive the best in the company of only their own species.

Even though they live in the brackish water, the addition of freshwater will induce spawning. The female will lay the eggs in the substrate beneath a root or rock where the male will fertilize them. After fertilization, the male will guard the eggs for approximately four days until the fry become waterborne.

The Bumblebee Goby requires a diet rich in small, live foods such as tubifex worms, bloodworms, brine shrimp and daphnia. 'Bumblebee Gobies' generally will not accept flakes and live food is recommended, however frozen meaty food and freeze dried food may sometimes be taken. Start feeding them with live bloodworms, blackworms, bbs, etc and then gradually introduce frozen versions of such food. If the frozen worms or shrimp are seen to move in the current they will be taken. Then you can make such food the staple, but feed them with live specimens at least once a week. Add plants, rocks, driftwood, etc. so territories could be staked.

Bumblebee Goby as seen in pictures is a very exotic, colorful and attractive fish that stays very small. Although these Gobies have been found as brackish fish but they can also be kept in freshwater, this exotic fish does better in a brackish water set-up. Addition of marine salt to the water to simulate low end brackish water conditions is recommended.

The Bumblebee Goby prefers a moderately low current especially in the bottom area of the tank where this fish resides. Live blackworms and live brine shrimp are both relished.

Dec 3, 2010

Tropical Cardinal Tetra



Cardinal Tetra Fish (Paracheirodon axelrodi) body size only 4.5 cm. But no doubt the Cardinal Tetra is the kind that most coveted of ornamental fish for aquarium hobbyists with an amazing color combinations. In the wild, these fish alive until thousands tail clustered in one group. Therefore, if maintained in the aquarium should be flocking to the minimum number of 12. They will stress if kept only a pair only. Cardinal Tetra Fish do not like strong light, they prefer the shade. Although Cardinal Tetra can tolerate a pH between 5.0 to 7.0 but they will spend the most optimal colors at pH 5.8.

Neon colors displayed by the fish is actually a result of light reflection of Iridescent Particles. This tropical fish uses reflected light obtained to reflect red and blue. At night, the Cardinal Tetra will pale, because the particles are not active. Not so clear what purpose the Cardinal Tetra fish colored neon flashy, but it is suspected that the neon colors that stand out are useful for the fish can follow the movements of his group in solid-colored waters (Blackwater)

The condition of the water where these fish live does not contain minerals, because most of the water comes from rain water, therefore water conditions in the aquarium if you want to keep this fish should be the same as in landscape. In its natural, neon or cardinal tetra fish is a prey for larger fish, such as fish, angelfish and other types of racing, but so far have never encountered obstacles and maintain the kind of angelfish and neon tetra cardinal in an aquarium.

If you want to maintain the cardinal tetra fish, aquarium should be prepared for a long time, in other words aquarium conditions is stable and water conditions are quite 'old', and the water has low pH levels. Water conditions greatly affect the survival of these tropical fish. Neon tetra otherwise more easily adapt to the conditions of the all-new aquarium. An easy way to get water conditions ideal for the cardinal fish (and other tetra species) is by mixing extracts of 'Blackwater' into the aquarium water. Products such as aquavital and tetra blackwater it's so good to get a blackwater conditions.

The recommended aquarium setup is to use substrate (sand) with a dark color, so the bright colors of Cardinal Tetra will appear in full. Water plants should be pretty much used to lure fish guts are swimming in open waters.